WINDMILLS AND BEAM ENGINES.

 

                                   

We stayed a couple of days in Hungerford, there is a great pub by the canal called The John O’Gaunt and it had 2 dark ale on for the Captain, a black pepper porter from INNFormal, their own brewery, and a coffee milk stout, so he was happy. The menu looked interesting, and when the main kitchen is closed they have a Tiki snack bar in the lovely outdoor terrace serving burritos, quesadillas and the like.

https://www.john-o-gaunt-hungerford.co.uk/

We had a walk round the town next day, there is a plethora of antique shops and we spent a happy ½ hour perusing the wares of one of them. There is also a large Tesco within walking distance of the canal.

After 6 miles and10 locks, one with a swing bridge in the middle, and a short spell on the River Dunn, we moored up for the night just before Crofton.

Now at Crofton there is the oldest steam powered beam engine in England, and the Captain had discovered it was in steam that weekend, and then as a bonus the local windmill at Wilton was having an open day on the Saturday to celebrate its bicentennial.

It was only a short hop to Crofton and we moored up just before lunch. Then it was time to walk to the windmill, I knew it was a bit of a trek but set out with enthusiasm. Unfortunately this didn’t last, I don’t mind walking, but I hate hills, and the route we took was up a bloody great hill, well what did I expect, windmills tend to be on top of hills. I whinged and whined but kept going, and I was so glad I did, it was a wonderful afternoon. The event was well attended by the locals and there was plenty to see and do. Punch and Judy and a magician for the kids, various stalls, a beer tent, hot food and cakes and entertainment for the adults. And the Captain promised me an easier walk back calling in the Swan in the village on the way.

https://www.wiltonwindmill.co.uk/

https://theswanwilton.com/

We were glad the weather held for the windmills celebration as next day it rained, but it didn’t put us off visiting the Beam Engine. Another interesting find on our journey.

https://www.croftonbeamengines.org/

 The afternoon was spent watching the footy, and unless you are a hermit and live in a case, you will know the Lionesses beat Germany to become European champions, and it was well deserved.

8 locks and Bruce tunnel next day to Wootton Rivers. The tunnel is only 502yrds long and 14ft wide, you can see the light at the end too, the ceiling is also quite high so the Captain wasn’t to concerned about his precious cratch covers.

We moored just before the last lock, and that’s when it got interesting, the locks close at 3.30pm (water saving measure). So any boats who arrived after that had to find somewhere to moor. So we ended up with a wide beam on the lock landing, a hire boat behind him, NB Victoria brested up against us, and NB Jack and Janner behind us all, very cosy.

And of course we had to try the Royal Oak pub in the village, we walked through the pretty village of Wootton Rivers only to find the pub didn’t open for about an hour, so rather than walk back and then return later we sat in the beer garden to wait. After a short time the landlord came out and saw us and asked if we wanted a drink, it was very welcome as it was hot and sunny. We sat outside with a pint until the pub opened and then went inside, its a lovely old building, and the girl behind the bar was great. The menu looked good too,, so we might call again on our way back.

https://royaloakwiltshire.co.uk/

Next morning and the water level had dropped quite a bit. The Adrian and Val of NB Jack and Janner were worried about the situation but still waited to go down the lock with us. This was the last lock for 14miles so a rest for me.

We moored the night near Honeystreet and the Barge Inn pub, the moorings here are meant to be 24hrs, but we were pretty sure some of the boats had been there a lot longer. The mooring spot we found wasn’t ideal, and the plank had to come into play for getting off and on the boat. Once again my desire to go to the pub out weighed my fear of the plank. The Barge is what I would call a proper boaters pub and we struck up conversation with other boaters before to long. It also has a camp and caravan site and does food.

https://thebargeinnhoneystreet.uk/

It was a very enjoyable time and if we can moor we shall be back.

Devizes was our next port of call.

AND WE’RE OFF, EVENTUALLY

The tree blocking the canal and towpath took a bit longer than we expected to clear. The towpath was cleared on the first day, but the part blocking the canal needed specialist equipment to remove it.

We stayed put on Thursday moored on the off side tied to a tree and unable to get off, but on Friday we decided we needed to move, I was going a little stir crazy being cooped up, and we had run out of bread and milk.

First we took a trip down to look at the tree and catch up with Steve who was moored just in front of it. It was a big tree, and we could see the reason why they needed special equipment to deal with it.

We exchanged mobile numbers with Steve, so he could keep us updated on the situation going forward. Then we backed the ¼ of a mile or so back to the lock. Narrowboats don’t steer when in reverse, so it took all of the Captain skill to keep us on the right trajectory for the lock landing. Now under normal circumstances we would never moor on a lock landing, but we had no choice.

It was great to be able to get off and we took a walk up to the main road and a petrol station to get the bread and milk.

We knew that the pub, The Butt Inn, was reopening, so of course we had to give it a try, we were impressed with the pub, although there were no dark ales on (I think the Captain has given up expecting to find any down here in the south). They were also giving out free tasters of the menu, so that we thought was tea sorted. Unfortunately it didn’t quite pan out that way, we got the first plate out of the kitchen, a crispy beef dish which was really tasty, but then we became invisible as dish after dish was whisked away in front of us to the people sat outside. Now don’t get me wrong, we didn’t expect to try everything that came out, and we quite understood that they wanted to give all their customers something to try, however the first table by the door seem to get to try every dish sent out by the kitchen, which really wasn’t fair on the rest of the customers. Must have been mates of the server. The Captain did chunter a bit, but after waiting a while we got to try a second sample of deep fried gnocchi which was very nice.

https://thebuttinn.com/dine

Saturday as we waited on the lock landing for news on the tree, we got chatting to a couple of paddle boarders, Keith, Charlie and Dipper the dog. They were very interested in our way of life, so I invited them on board to take a look inside our boat, they were very impressed with our home.

Then the news we had been waiting for, the tree was gone and we could resume our journey.

I must give a shout out to CRT customer service, who I contacted on the first day and spoke to Natalie, she kept me updated with phone calls, and when she went on holiday on Friday her colleague Sarah took over by email. It was much appreciated.

After 4 locks and a swing bridge with Steve as our companion once again, we decided to stop at Thatcham, but due to some serious git gaps we struggled to get in, but Steve came to the rescue, his shorter boat fitted into the space nicely and we just brested up to him for the night.

Newbury next day and we needed to get there and moor up by early afternoon, as we were meeting our old friends Lorraine and Mr Kev, we met them in 2015 when they had a boat called Dragonfly, but the life afloat wasn’t for them and they returned to the land. But we still get together when we can.

Mr Kev and Lorriane

We really wanted to be on the moorings near Victoria park, but a passing boater told us these mooring were full, bummer. However when we got to Newbury there turned out to be plenty of moorings opposite Newbury Wharf, which was even better as we needed a pump out, and that’s were the Captain had planned to get one.

https://newburymarina.com/chandlery/

We had a lovely time with Kev and Lorraine, a great Lebanese meal and finished the night off in the local Wetherspoons, which had Lancaster Black on for the Captain.

https://lebanesehouse.co.uk/

https://www.lancasterbrewery.co.uk/beer-and-cider

We had a lie in next day before pushing the boat over to the wharf for the pump out, and then back into the same space. Shopping was on the agenda, first Lidl, but horror of horrors they had no large bottles of sparkling water, but we managed to get everything else. So off to Aldi and hallelujah they had plenty. Both these shops and a large Tesco are accessible to the canal, in fact you can moor outside Tesco. We didn’t explore the town centre but are planning to visit again on our return journey.

Next day after scrumping some apples from a tree by our moorings we set off for Kintbury, 8 locks and 1 swing bridge away, this stretch of the canal is lacking in facilities and we needed water, which after Aldermaston Kintbury is the next available. The locks were quite heavy, but I managed, and at one of them I met a couple of canoeists who were doing a charity paddle from Reading to Bristol, and they had managed to raise £1000 for Great Ormand Street hospital.

We made it to Kintbury, watered up, and stayed the night. There are 2 pubs, the Dundass Arms right on the canal, and the Blue Ball in the village. We tried both of them, no darks, but we weren’t really expecting to find one to be honest.

https://dundasarms.co.uk/

https://www.admiraltaverns.co.uk/pubs/blue-ball-kintbury/

All the villages we visit in this area are quaint and beautiful, with their old thatched cottages with roses and ivy round the doors and windows.

After a late start next day we headed to Hungerford, unfortunately a name for those of a certain age that holds a terrible memory of a mass shooting in 1987 when 16 people died.

There were 3 locks for me to do, and we were joined by a hire boat, the lady crew seemed ok, but her Captain was at times what I would call ‘away with the fairies’. Particularly at one lock, the Captain had entered first and was struggling to hold the boat against the lock side and it drifted into the centre of the lock. Instead of waiting the hirer came in at full speed and hit the back of Avalon Two causing her to hit the cill heavily at the front of the boat. He did apologise and no damage was really done, but I could see the Captain was not a happy bunny and was pleased when we parted company.

We found great mooring and beer at Hungerford but that’s for next time folks.

CRASH BANG WALLOP

   

Well it all seems to happening round us, but luckily not to us.

Where shall I start? I was rudely awakened early Tuesday morning, and by early I mean 5am, by the sound of someone using a large industrial angle grinder, it stopped and then they started with some heavy duty banging. Most strange, and annoying I thought. Then it stopped, and about half an hour later it started again. So I poked my head out of our hatch to see sparks, like a firework, coming from the bridge behind us and a couple of guys in hi viz clothing.

As I couldn’t see the reason I went back to bed, as you do. When we did get up we discovered that in the early hours of the morning (around 2am) a car had hit the bridge, (we never heard a thing) and what I had heard and seen, was the contractors cutting the car free from the bridge railings. Yes, it hit it that hard one of its wheels was found on the other side of the canal. Apparently the driver and passenger didn’t hang about to discuss how it happened with the police.

The bridge was closed to both cars and narrowboats whilst they erected some temporary railings, and checked that the bridge alignment and hydraulics were not damaged. Luckily everything was ok and they reopened the bridge around teatime.

And there’s more, apparently the same night another car had hit a swing bridge just further down the canal, and this also had to be repaired. By the time we reached it all was good and we got through no problem.

And there’s more, but I will come to that later.

After the 2 very hot days it was time to move. We decided to make for Aldermaston. 2 reasons a post box, the Captain had a card to post and the pub The Butt Inn. But first we needed water and bins which were located at the second lock of the day.

Everything seemed to be going well until we reached the services and found 4 boats already there. 1 filling with water, 2 waiting, and the other doing a pump out. We tried to pull in behind but part of the arnco had fallen in, which meant we grounded, the Captain had an anxious moment as we tried to extract ourselves, and we got uncomfortably close to a small fibre glass yogurt pot moored on the opposite bank. Steel meeting fibre glass is never a good thing. The Captain being the most excellent steerer that he his soon had the situation under control. The 2 boats on the water point started to leave and we were able to pull in. The boat behind us Steve on, NB First Love or Cariad Cyntaf in Welsh, said he wouldn’t be long and started to fill a number of 5litre bottles. Not a problem, there is no rushing on the canal. Then he let the boat doing a pump out fill up before eventually filling his own tank. Then it was our turn.

It did give me time to check out the lock and the swing bridge before it, a rather strange set up, and it was apparent that the lock had to be set and the gates open before opening the bridge to let the boats through. As they are double locks we asked Steve if he wanted to join us, and he did. The Captain always worries that this means more work for me but I don’t mind, and sometimes I find it easier to work single handers through than have them get off their boat to help.

As we left another boat turned up on the water point, and a couple of the crew wandered up to check out the lock. I had a quick chat and discovered they were part the Mikron Theatre company who travel round the system by boat putting on performances here and there

https://www.mikron.org.uk/

Water and rubbish sorted. We were off again.

At the next bridge a boat was moored on the bridge landing, which makes it difficult to drop me off to operate the bridge. It turned out the guy didn’t have a choice, as the head gasket had gone, which meant he was going nowhere and he was waiting for help.

At the next lock Steve decided he was going to stop and have a rest, so we continues on alone doing the next lock and then we were at Aldermaston. But, as is often the case there were no moorings below Aldermaston lock, as there is a boatyard, who has use of all the mooring a long that stretch, there were signs offering chargeable moorings but no price so on we went. I then realised it was a similar set up to the earlier lock, a bridge before it, which I thought (wrongly as it turned out) meant I would need to set the lock before opening the bridge, so this is what I did.

I love the bridges on this stretch as they are in the main all electric, so all I have to do is put my key in push the button. As I was doing this I was approached by 2 ladies, its not unusual for people to be intrigued by me doing it all by myself.

We got chatting and the information they gave me suddenly changed everything, firstly the pub wasn’t open yet. Oh no. but more importantly a tree had fallen across the canal just round the next bend, blocking the canal and towpath completely, this was my next ‘and there’s more’ moment.

I got so distracted I left my waterways key at the bridge and had to go back for it.

The Captain wasn’t to bothered, as we had decided earlier this was as far as we were going today, but as with a lot of places, when we tried to moor it was impossible, either too shallow or too overgrown. We could see just before the bend 2 boats breasted up on the offside, when we got as far as them they told us there was no point in going any further. It looked like we wouldn’t be able to moor, but the Captain spotted a handy tree and got the nose of the boat tied on there and luckily at the back there was arnco. But in the position we were in, we couldn’t get off the boat.

I in the meantime had phoned CRT for an update and was told contractors wouldn’t be out until the next day, so we were here for the night.

Hopefully as tradition says things come in three’s, and this will be our last disaster on the K&A.

LOVE IT OR HATE IT.

And I mean the Kennet and Avon canal The jury is out at the moment as we have only been on it a couple of days, and only done 7 out of the 98 locks and one swing bridge. But up to now I am quite enjoying it.

First back to our final days on the Thames, Thursday, and we had an early bath as the Captain decided we were a little a head of schedule. We found a lovely place to moor and settled down for the afternoon.

Next day however turned out to be a rather long day, we wanted to get to Reading and do shopping there at the Tesco by the river. We had heard many horror stories of the mooring being full with boats that did not move, but we set off with hope in our heart.

We met up again with Old Badger whilst filling up with water, luckily there were 2 taps but they were extremely slow so it took ages. It gave me chance to chat to the crew off Badger, and I discovered their names were Pete and Julie, they hadn’t been together long and it was her first trip out on the boat and she was having a great time.

Both tanks full and we headed into the lock together. It was their last day on the river, they were heading home next day so they moored up to make the most of the lovely weather and we went on our way.

We passed NB Escapology who also write a blog and publish it on Facebook. According to their blog they hadn’t had the best of time on the K&A, but we knew we had to find out for ourselves.

https://www.facebook.com/N.B.escapology

And of course the hot weather brings out the exhibitionist, as a naked man strolling along the towpath smiled and waved, you see it all, and I mean all by boat.

The horror stories about mooring at Tesco turned out to be just that, stories, and we found a spot no problem. So topped up with the essential, beer wine and of course food, then we set off to moor at Sonning just before the lock.

As we pulled in a gentleman offered to help, but I made a complete hash of throwing him our centre line to pull us in. the Captains says I need lessons, and tbh I agree, after 12yrs boating I should be an expert by now.

The gentleman was off a large yogurt pot moored in front of us called Gin Sling II, and we had a chat with him and his good lady before retiring for a well earned beer. We did think about going to the Bull Inn, but although the mind was willing but the body not.

The Kennet and Avon canal is 87miles long, and connects Bristol to Reading and the Thames. It is a combination of river and canal. The canal part links the River Kennet and the River Avon. It has 105 locks. Built between 1794 and 1810 it remained in operation until the Second World War, when a number of pill boxes were built as part of the GHQ blue line, and can still be seen today. After the war the canal continued to decline, until the use of pleasure boats forced its restoration starting in 1962.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kennet_and_Avon_Canal

The most spectacular feature is the Caen Hill flight of 29 locks, which raises the canal 237ft over 2miles

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caen_Hill_Locks

Our adventures on the K&A started next day. Firstly the part through Reading, the EA and town is really missing a trick, as there is no mooring all the way through the town centre which looks lovely, with shops, bars and restaurants lining the route. Of course being Saturday and lovely weather, every man and his dog was out. So I got to practice my wave for when we get to London.

Its a rather strange one way system in Reading as parts are quite narrow. Its a bit like using a pedestrian crossing, you have to push the button and wait for the light to turn green. At the end of the one way system was our first canal lock, so back to using my trusty windlass for me.

After 4 locks we managed to moor near the Cunning Man, a highly recommended canalside pub. But I can’t say we were impressed at all. Firstly they have nailed the gate directly on to the towpath shut so you have to traipse through the car park. Then at the first door into the pub there was sign that said ‘garden exit only’. Well that got ignored, and we went up to the bar only to be told the bar was for app ordered drinks only, and we would need to get our drinks from the garden bar. Now we always go up to the bar because as most of you know the Captain has a particular taste in beer, and we like to look what’s on offer, and if there is nothing on the pumps check out the chillers to see what bottled beer they have on offer. So after being told off like naughty children, we went to the garden bar to discover that they only had 3 lagers and cider on tap, and anything else would have to be fetched by the barman from the pub. What a crazy system. I felt sorry for the young barman and did wonder how he managed if it got busy if he had to keep fetching drinks from the pub. The Captain decided on Doom Bar, which of course had to be fetched, I am shaking my head whilst I type still not understanding the logic behind it all. The beer was ok and the Captain ordered the second round on the app. The garden and surrounding are lovely, but we never saw inside the pub and I didn‘t get to look at a menu, so I cant comment on the food.

https://www.vintageinn.co.uk/restaurants/south-east/thecunningmanburghfieldbridge#/

Our plan next day was to do 3 locks and 1 swing bridge, and then find somewhere in the shade to moor, as the temperature was due to rise into the high 30’s over the next 2 days. Much too hot to be cruising. There were a lot of hire boats on the move, they definitely picked a good week for their holidays afloat.

We found good mooring through Sheffield swing bridge and a short walk to the Fox and Hounds pub.

We didn’t try the pub that night but took a walk the next afternoon, its a nice country pub, a little on the pricey side for us northerners, but it was nice to sit inside were it was cool.

https://butcombe.com/the-fox-hounds-berkshire/

That’s all for now folks.

THE TERRIFIC THAMES.

 

I love being on the river, especially when its hot, and as you know we have had some scorching weather recently.

As we exited Isis lock we turned right towards Lechlade, we haven’t done this bit before and we didn’t intend going all the way to the end, our time scale wouldn’t allow it.

We did have 2 large river locks to do before mooring up, both self service. The first was all electric so an easy job for me. I jumped off and helped 2 boats to lock down, before bringing our boat up. The second lock was manual and strange to me, as the paddles were raised by using what looked like a ships steering wheel, but it was well maintained so not hard work at all. At the second lock we had expected to get water but we couldn’t see the tap. It turned out that at this lock the tap is in the office and you can only fill jerry cans but we use a hose.

We wild moored for the night, this means we didn’t use official moorings, but just pitched up and stayed where we could get alongside the bank.

I got up early next morning to a beautiful sight, the river was bathed in mist as the sun rose, absolutely stunning. Then I went back to bed.

The hot weather caused us a few issues on Sunday.

The day started with us heading back the way we had come, only to turn round again when a helpful Lock Keeper told us there was water at the next lock up. But not before we picked up a couple of visitors. Angela and Graham. I had been chatting with them whilst the Captain chatted with the lock keeper. I decided to ask them if they fancied cruising up to the next lock and back with us, and they jumped at the chance. It’s nice to offer someone an experience they have never had before. We chatted away about all sorts and discovered that my daughter and Angela’s had been born 2 days a part, its a strange world at times. Graham got a little motion sick, but a nice cup of tea soon had him right.

After filling with water we turned back and. dropped them back off at the lock The Lock Keeper commended us on our generosity in taking them on a little cruise. It was our pleasure.

After this things started getting a little chaotic, the fine weather had bought all and sundry to the river, and everywhere we looked there were people young and old, swimming, in canoes, on paddle boards and all manner of boats power and unpowered making the most the cool river. It took all of the Captain concentration to navigate NB Avalon Two through the melee of people. There was a lot of muttering and chuntering under his breath, but he kept his cool, and were soon through the worst of it and wild moored in the shade.

This was the first time the plank came into use to get us off the boat. I was very wary, but after a bit of encouragement I tried stepping on to it, still not happy, but my confidence was building and I felt sure that the day would come when I would be able to trot my way across without fear.

Our plan next day was to get to Abingdon and stay for the night. We had been sharing the locks with another narrow boat called Old Badger from Reading, this meant its Captain was full of local knowledge regarding moorings, so was able to give my Captain some pointers to the best moorings.

I must say the moorings in Abingdon are great, a large flat grassed area with enough room for 5/6 boats, and free for 3 days. The town itself is very pretty with a range of shops and pubs.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abingdon-on-Thames

After doing some investigating, I determined that the Brewery Tap would be our best hope of finding a dark ale for the Captain. They had 2 darks on, a porter and one of the Captains all time favourites London Stout. So one very happy bunny. The food menu looked interesting, but it was back to the boat for tea.

https://www.thebrewerytap.net/#7-nights-a-week-copy

Egyptian Geese

Tuesday and a little respite from the sun as the cloud stayed with us all day. The river was peaceful after the weekend, and I managed to spot a little egret amongst the geese and the ducks. We have also seen some Egyptian geese.

Little Egret

Wallingford was the next place on our agenda, again we shared the locks with NB Old Badger and the Captain got more mooring advice from its Captain. But it was not to be, the accessible moorings (charged at £12 per night) were all full, there was a lot of git gapping going on so we had to turn and use some, yes you have guessed it, a wild mooring the Captain had spotted. On this occasion I could get off and on to the bank, but there was no way I was going to get up, or more importantly down the slope to the path. So out came the plank again, and with the Captains encouragement, and my determination to get to the pub, I managed to get to the path. I put out of my mind having to get back on until we had had a walk round the very pretty town, the lovely St Mary-le-more church and been to the pub.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wallingford,_Oxfordshire

We tried the Cross Keys first no darks on, in fact the landlord had a very strange idea of what a dark ale was, he pointed proudly to a pump clip of a bitter saying this is a dark ale waiting to come on. Bitter is not a dark ale. When we pointed this out we got the same old spiel, Oh we cant sell that sort of beer. The Captain ended up with a bitter which wasn’t to bad.

https://www.thecrosskeyswallingford.com/

Then off to The Boat House pub and tea. The Captain had had a look at the menu and was impressed with what he saw, especially the prices. It got even better as on weekdays you can get 2 main courses for just over £14, a bargain. We both chose pie, I had the steak and ale and the Captain chicken and ham. They were very tasty but I would have preferred a little more meat in mine. They also give CAMRA members 10% of real ales.

https://www.greeneking-pubs.co.uk/pubs/oxfordshire/boat-house/

The red kites have been with us all the time. Just before mooring there where 8 above the boat, all soaring and enjoying the clear skies. We have seen kingfishers and heard the plaintive hoot of an owl in the woods opposite the boat.

On to the Kennet and Avon canal next.