WHAT’S THAT FOLLOWING US ???

 

Willeymoor Lock Tavern in the sun

After my very successful weigh in we decided to give the pubs in Whitchurch a try. First was the Black Bear, not a great deal of choice on for me, but the Captain tried a fruit and nut mild, not great so only a half. Then we walked down to the White Bear, hidden down a little alley, we had great hopes but were sorely disappointed, not even a bitter on here, but a very helpful landlady who suggested we try the Wheatsheaf, still not great, but Rev James on here, a palatable bitter so a pint, it was very much a locals pub and quite lively. Then we gave up and headed back to the Crafty Dragon for the last pint.

Friday was a busy day, we managed to achieve the holy grail in boating terms, a full water tank, an empty toilet tank and we got rid of our rubbish, all at the top of the Grindley Brook locks. After this amazing feat, I pottered off to help at the locks, 3 boats were coming up, they all had plenty of crew but I still helped out were I could. We were the 2^nd of 3 boats going down, the 1^st a hire boat with a large group of American fella’s on who seemed to know what they were doing. I chatted to one of them, he was interested in the history of the canal, but in true US style wasn’t very aware of things outside the USA, didn’t even know where or what Blackpool was.

We followed the hire boat for quite some time before they moored before Willeymoor Lock and headed to the pub, the Willeymoor Tavern for a pint. The Captain chatted with them (after they got their pints) and discovered there was a stout on. With this information we decided to moor and give it a try, it was early for us as the pub closed for a couple of hours at 3pm. So we sat taking in the afternoon sun with a couple of pints. The stout was Belhaven Black Scottish stout. Belhaven is Scotlands oldest working brewery, and part of the Greene King group. It wasn’t to my taste, but I was quite happy with San Miguel.

https://www.willeymoorlock.co.uk/

https://www.belhaven.co.uk/our-brewery

The American contingency decided to move on after a couple of pints, and made a bit of a pigs ear getting into the lock, I won’t say it was because of the beer, but we do have an unwritten rule if we have had a drink, we don’t do locks. So much can go wrong.

The weather this trip has not been the best, but in the main the rain has held off. We were not so lucky next day, our plan was to get to Baddiley Locks, a journey of 6miles 2 locks and 3 lift bridges. Well as we approached the final bridge of the day at Wrenbury the heavens opened, and of course suddenly there was no were suitable to moor, so we had to keep going. We eventually moored up near our destination looking like drowned rats.

Unsure of how far we wanted to go next day, we decided to get to the top of the Hurleston locks, these take us off the Llangollen and back onto the Shropshire Union and then see how we felt.

At the 5 locks before Hurleston we met boats coming in both directions which was great and made for easy passage through. As we had made good time we decided to keep going. There are 4 locks close together at Hurleston, unfortunately all 4 boats there (including us) were going down, so it took a little longer.

We turned back onto the Middlewich branch of the Shroppy after the Captain successfully got us past the Barbridge Inn without me suggesting we stop for a pint, and moored up in the MONW.

A short hop to Aqueduct marina for fuel next day. The Captain doesn’t like to let the level drop to far just in case we develop the dreaded diesel bug. We use red diesel which is available from most marinas, wharf, working boats and in one case a garage by the side of the canal, but it’s always best to check the price first as it can vary greatly. For those of you who don’t know, red diesel is used by haulage firms and farms, and does not have the same amount of tax added as normal diesel. It usually works out about 47p cheaper a litre, but we have to declare what we use for propulsion, and what is used for domestic, ie creating electricity to charge our batteries, the split is usually 60/40 but its up to the boater to decide.

Another night in the MONW

On the way to Middlewich next day we spotted a cormorant swimming in the canal. Now we tend to see these on rivers but not so much canals. They are not the most attractive of birds with their drab black plumage and evil looking beak (think vulture). But having seen one close up I discovered, that the markings on their back and wings are iridescent and looked like fish scales. Well, this cormorant followed us for some time, diving down down and then reappearing close to the back of the boat, we decided it was because he was hoping that we would stir up the bottom of the canal and disturb the fish so he could catch his dinner, this proved to be true as on his 3^rd dive he came up with a silvery fish which he soon gulped down.

Cormorant

We moored above Wardle lock and decided to head back to the Kings Lock pub. The Captain had been very impressed with their choice of beer but was to be disappointed on this occasion, all they had on were hoppy pale beers. He tried one, only a half, but couldn’t finish it so gave it me. We didn’t stay but walked to the White Bear on the main street in Middlewich and faired a lot better in here, with Dunham Massey Milk Stout, so a couple in there.

https://www.thewhitebearmiddlewich.co.uk/

https://www.facebook.com/dunhammasseybrewing/?locale=en_GB

Next day we came of the Wardle/Shroppy canal and on to the Trent and Mersey once again, but we didn’t go far, only 4 locks, and we moored up near the Big Lock, this is the first of the double locks (will take 2 boats side by side).

There is a pub at the big lock called The Big Lock (original I know), and we decided to give it a go. It was a nice afternoon so we sat on the veranda over-looking the lock. They had sold out of cask ales due to the Middlewich Folk and Boat festival which had been on at the weekend, so the Captain made do with John Smiths.

https://biglockmiddlewich.co.uk/

A family of swans caught our eye as they walked past the lock, Dad first followed in a neat row by 5 signets and Mum bringing up the rear. Reminded me of a Victorian schoolmaster taking his pupil between classes.

Ok kids, one at a time

We have decided to take the Anderton boat lift down on to the river Weaver for a few days, a slight change of plan because the Captain needs to go to the bank, and there is a branch still open in Northwich (surprisingly), we can moor on the pontoons there (hopefully) and walk into the town. 

Anderton Boat Lift

25 miles, 26 locks, 4 bridges and 4 canals

THE MONTY AND BEYOND.

Me

As I have already said, you have to book the Montgomery canal, and it is only open between 9am and 12pm. So the Captain booked for us to be on there from Saturday to Tuesday, this would give us enough time to do the whole length without rushing.

The canal was the quietest we have seen it when we travelled to the beginning of the Monty, only saw one boat all day. We were soon moored up at the Frankton locks, which mark the entrance to the canal.

Tree Creeper

I saw a new bird for me as well, a Tree Creeper, we also spotted a beautifully coloured Jay, but we are yet to see a kingfisher this year. I didn’t mention earlier that Llangollen seemed to be the home of the mandarin ducks, although we only saw mothers and chicks, no males. These are pretty little ducks and the ducklings were no exception.

A Jay

There was 1 other boat waiting to go down the locks, and as with us being late risers they got off first. Frankton locks are a set of 4 narrow locks, the first 2 being a staircase then a small gap between the next 2. The Captain booked us in with the lockee and we were told 2 boats were coming up, but that we could do the staircase locks first and pass them in the pounds. It all went to plan and we were soon on our way.

Like the Llangollen, the Monty is a pretty rural canal without many villages, and certainly no towns along the way. It was opened in 1797, and its purpose to was to transport lime from the quarries, and lime kilns in Wales, for agricultural use. It ran for 33miles, but at the moment only 8miles is navigable at the Llangollen end, although volunteers are working hard to connect the rest of it to the main line (more about that later).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montgomery_Canal

Our original plan for the day was to get as far as the Queens Head at Oswestry and go for a pint, and on our way we met groups of canoeists and paddle boarders. When we reached the Queens Head the Captain convinced me that we needed to go a little further to the Navigation Inn. As long as I got a pint, that was fine by me.

But it was not to be as the Navigation keeps, in my opinion rather strange hours for a canal side pub, and it was closed when we got there. I wasn’t a happy bunny, but the Captain promised me we would return to the Queens Head next day. Compromise reached.

When chatting to the lockee at Frankton, the Captain discovered that you can actually get a little further than he first thought to Crickheath basin, and that the volunteers would be there all weekend working on reinstating the canal. So we thought it would be a great idea to head there and see how they were getting on.

The canal is narrow and shallow in places, but we luckily didn’t meet many other boats so it was a gentle cruise through some breath taking scenery.

We winded and moored in the basin, then took a walk up to were we could see people working on the canal, at this point they seemed to be rebuilding a side of the canal, a little further on the canal was starting to look more like a canal, although not in water yet. We could see people sat in the main channel and nothing seemed to be happening, then a little dump truck filled with blocks appeared. These blocks were being used to hold the liners down on the bottom and side of the canal, and to get them to the guys laying them was a simple but ingenious method, they had a slanting trough with a pallet table at the bottom, and the blocks were simply slid down the trough to the waiting guys below. We stood and watched fascinated for a while before being joined by a volunteer, who explained how it all worked, how many liners were used and about the different types and their purpose. In olden days the bottom and sides of the canal were filled with clay which was then ’puddled’ (squashed down) using, if they could get them a herd of cattle, this made the canal water tight.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puddling_(civil_engineering)

Laying the blocks

We chatted with the lady for a while before heading back and heading off for the pub.

We moored outside the canoe place, no canoeist were out and about today, and headed off. The Captain didn’t have a lot of choice, but made do with Station bitter. There was an extensive menu, including Sunday roasts, and the food that came out looked and smelt lovely, but I had tea all organised back home.

https://www.the-queens-head-oswestry.co.uk/

Our time on the Monty was coming to an end, and we moored for the night at the bottom of the locks. We found the bins and put water in before settling down for a quiet night, as we knew the next day would be quite hectic, as we needed to shop at Ellesmere before getting closer to Whitchurch for Thursday. We needed to be there as I wish to attend a Slimming World meeting to keep my membership current, not sure if I was really looking forward to being weighed though, been drinking lots more beer, but on the upside I have been getting lots more exercise.

A boat had just come down the locks as we set off, but first the Captain spotted something in the water, a tiny newt swimming at the back of the boat, its was only 3” long and seemed to be feeding off the algae on our hull. What a great spot.

We had 2 lockees to help us up the locks and we were soon on our way.

Ellesmere was busy with boats, and we followed a hire boat down the arm, with NB Silver Moon bringing up the rear. We nipped into the first space we spotted, whilst the hire boat winded and managed to fit in behind us.

After shopping and lunch we set off once again, and at last we spotted our first kingfisher, it sat on a branch just above the canal, before shooting off, its neon blue rump bright in the sunshine. Yippee and one happy Captain.

Kingfisher

You would have laughed to see us as we tried to moor, we desperately needed the internet, but the signal was all over the place, so we pulled the boat backwards and forwards trying to find the best spot. Eventually we gave up and went on the next moorings only to find we had a great signal there.

The final push to Whitchurch only included 3 lift bridges, at the first another boater had raised it and allowed 3 boats through, but had to lower it before we got there due to a car waiting to cross. At the next we caught up with NB Marquess, and her crew was off winding it up and through we went I returned the favour at the final bridge, and we parted company when we turned down the Whitchurch arm (which was very busy) and they continued on.

I am happy to say my weigh in at SW was a success, and I lost 5 ½ lbs in 6 weeks.

31 miles, 14 locks, 5 lift bridges and 1 tunnel. 2 canals.

THE LOVELY LLANGOLLEN, PART TWO

 

The Captain on the Pontcysyllte Aquedict

This is a really beautiful canal, but very busy with mainly hire boats which can be interesting at times. It is also almost lock free which makes for a quiet time for me.

On leaving the Whitchurch arm we only had a number of lift bridges to contend with, and luckily for us we met a boat going our way just as we set off, this meant we could share the bridges. The bridges are operated by using your windless, and turning and turning and turning until the bridge is full up, and then the boat can cruise through. 50 turns I counted on the one I did, it’s very good for the muscles in your arms, and that’s about all they are good for.

We didn’t do the whole 12 miles to Ellesmere in one day and spent a peaceful night in the MONW.

Ellesmere, like Whitchurch, is down a short arm and we were hopeful of finding moorings somewhere on the arm, but to start with it wasn’t looking to promising, there was a bit of git gapping (leaving silly gaps between moored boats) going on, and we did say that if there was nothing further down, we would simply ask the boats taking up too much room to move up to allow us to fit in. This wasn’t necessary, as right at the end of the arm (and next to Tesco) was a space just the right size for Avalon Two. The Captain expertly winded the boat (turned it around), and we were soon moored up.

We have been to Ellesmere before but couldn’t remember much about the town or the pubs, I checked back on my blog (yes I do have them going back that far) to see we tried the Red Lion, The White Hart and The Market, with not much to recommend any of them, but hey ho it was 8yrs ago and things may have changed. We walked round the town first, it is a sleepy quiet place with a few shops, takeaways and restaurants. There was a newish pub in town The Vaults, and it sounded like just the place for us, unfortunately it didn’t live up to the reviews we had read, quirky enough but the beer selection left a lot to be desired, well for us anyway. Only cask beer was a bitter and I had Angelo Poretti lager, it wasn’t the best pint, so we decided to try the White Hart and had a much better experience. The Captain was very happy with Phoenix Worcestershire porter by The Hop Shed, and I found a great pint of Staropramen. It was a lovely friendly locals pub and we had a great time.

https://www.facebook.com/WhiteHartEllesmere/?locale=en_GB

https://thehopshed.co.uk/

After a lie in the next day, and a quick shop in Tesco, we set off back down the arm and turned right heading for Trevor.

Before mooring up we passed the junction of the Montgomery Canal, this is 32½ miles long with 25 locks of which only about 8miles is navigable from the Llangollen end. We might do it on our return as we haven’t done it before.

Next day and just 2 locks to do, so I jumped ship and walked the mile or so to the first lock and helped 2 hire boats up before Avalon Two. It was nice to chat with the crew for the hire boats. At the 2^nd lock there was an issue with something behind the off side gate, it wouldn’t open fully. The Captain got his trusty pole and had a bit of a poke round but couldn’t really find anything. Then when in the lock he had another go and pulled a piece of wood out from behind the gate, and this seemed to solve the problem.

The canal starts to get very narrow in places from here on, and after mooring up we had a number of boats scrape down the side of us, it cant be helped most of the time and is part of boating.

 

The Narrow Cut

The canal is very interesting from this point, and next day we had 2 tunnels and 2 big aqueducts, all one way working. Chirk aqueduct first, swiftly followed by Chirk tunnel (459yrds long). Then a short tunnel only 191yrds long, the Whitehouse tunnel. Followed by a wonder of the waterways, the Pontcysyllte aqueduct. 18 stone arches carries the cast iron trough across the valley for 336yrds. The trough is 12ft wide with a towpath and railing on one side and a sheer drop on the other, its definitely not for some one who is afraid of heights.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontcysyllte_Aqueduct

We moored for the night at Trevor, although the number of moorings wasn’t great, as the hire boat company seemed to have taken over the one we used last time we were here. The Captain executed a near perfect turn before mooring up, showing a hire boat how it was done.

We went to the pub, The Telford Inn for tea, and the Captain treated me to a very nice steak pie and chips ,it was really delicious.

https://www.facebook.com/p/Telford-Inn-Trevor-Llangollen-Canal-100039970462218/

The final part of the journey into Llangollen involves 2 narrow sections, only wide enough for one boat. At the start of these I walked forward with my walkie talkie to let the Captain know it was clear, and to stop any boat coming in the opposite direction from setting off. We were following a hire boat full of Americans from Boston, who were lovely, but didn’t have much of a clue. All fun and games.

At the end of the navigable part of the Llangollen is a very nice basin with pontoons, electrical hook up, water and bins. But you do have to pay for them, £13 a night (£6 last time we were here). As we moored up I spotted NB Intrigue and Isadora, but no sign of their crews.

Last time we were here we walked up to Horseshoe Falls but didn’t see much of the town itself, so after a spot of lunch we headed out. We found St Collens church and had a look round inside, although there has been a church on the site since the 6C, the present one is Victorian, only the tower is older being 18C. The church is lovely inside and the ceiling is beautifully carved. There is a memorial to the Ladies on Llangollen, Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby, who lived as a married couple near the town in the late 1700’s and are buried in the churchyard.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Collen's_Church,_Llangollen

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladies_of_Llangollen

We also found a great little tavern and wine bar called Liberty for a couple of pints, and the Captain was very happy with a pint of Lost Abbey, a coffee stout by Big Hand Brewery of Wrexham, and it was happy hour, 20% off what could be better.

https://www.facebook.com/libertytavernllangollen/

https://www.facebook.com/BigHandBrewing/?locale=en_GB

On returning to the boat we managed to catch up with Pam, Darrell, Kim and Neil, and stood talking for sometime at the back of the boats. Being liveaboards we all had our slippers on as someone pointed out.

The trip out of Llangollen next day was uneventful, well that was until we moored up, and it seemed like every man and his dog went by us, one hire boat was so fast they could have been towing a water skier (they got yelled at). Then as I looked up from Candy Crush another boat rammed the front of us, I really don’t know how he managed it, but there was no acknowledgment or apology from the Captain of NB Sceptre.

We have decided to go up the Monty, so that will be fore next time.

42 miles, 2 locks, 5 lift bridge, 2 tunnels (twice) and 2 aqueducts (twice)

THE LOVELY LLANGOLLEN.

 

A Beautiful Sunset

I know I said we were on the Shropshire Union canal, well we were, but on the Middlewich branch which is only 9 miles long, with 2 locks before you reach Barbridge Junction and the main arm of the Shroppy.

At the junction you can turn right towards Chester or left towards Birmingham. We turned left but didn’t get very far at all, as we decided to moor outside The Old Barbridge Inn for the night, and of course we had to nip in and pay our dues and demands, well just have a drink actually. Unfortunately the Captain was disappointed, for although they had 6 cask ales on, not one was a dark and he had to make do with a palatable bitter.

Next day, and only a couple of miles on and we turned on to the Llangollen canal for our trip into deepest darkest Wales.

The name Llangollen canal was only coined in the 1980’s, but historically it was part of the Ellesmere canal and the Llangollen feeder, which became part of the Shroppy canal in 1846. It is 46miles long and a narrow canal, with 21 locks, 9 moveable bridges, 3 tunnels, 5 small aqueducts and 2 major aqueducts, the most famous being the Pontcysyllte. It was used to transport iron and coal.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Llangollen_Canal

At the start of the Llangollen are the 4 locks of the Hurleston flight, and I was very happy to see Lockees in attendance. But when the heavens opened (again) 2 of them disappeared, but they soon reappeared in their wet weather gear.

As the clouds were looking menacing, as we cleared the locks we decided to cut our losses and moor up for the night.

The next day was one of the most enjoyable I have had up to now on this trip. We were heading for Wrenbury and had 5 locks in front of us, but every man and his dog seemed to be heading our way, and at each lock we were in a queue. This meant I could get off help out and chat. And I did a lot of chatting and helping. I also found time to make scones between locks. I mainly chatted to the Captains and crews of NB Intrigue and NB Isadora, that’s Kim and Neil, and Pam and Darrell. They were travelling together but we managed to insert our boat between them. They were from Leighton Buzzard and out for about 3months. We had a great time, and I gifted them some of my scones (have to watch the Captains waistline somehow). Although we hadn’t planned to get all the way to Wrenbury, we soon found ourselves there and moored up near the pub, The Dusty Miller.

On our last visit to Wrenbury in 2016, there was another pub called The Cotton Arms, but as with so many others this has now closed, such a shame, the food in there was excellent. We did nip to the Dusty Miller for a pint, but again there were no darks on tap, they did have Old Tom in bottles (small bottles). Again the last time we were here Old Tom was actually on tap, but at £6 a pint it was very expensive and the Captain had to make do with a half. He resisted and had a lager for the first round, but then succumbed and had Old Tom for his second drink, at 8.5% avb you don’t need many.

https://www.robinsonsbrewery.com/our-beers/old-tom/

The Llangollen is very rural and very pretty, with lovely views. The locks are not to hard, only 4 the next day. More boats were moving, mainly hire boats ,which can make life interesting depending on how experienced their crews are, but in the main the ones we met were doing very well, with a little advise from me and other boaters. At most of the locks we managed to meet boats coming the other way, which always makes life easier and helps with water conservations.

We moored up just before Grindley Brook, this is a flight of 3 single locks and a staircase of 3 with lockees on to help. As we sat having lunch the heavens opened again, and I was very pleased we had stopped when we did.

Boats passed without any problem, until one hire boat passed at full speed making us rock and roll, I stood up and shouted, only to be met by a blank stare from the bloke (wont call him a gentleman) steering. The Captain had to go out and check our ropes. The rule is to pass moored boats on tick over, but some don’t know and some don’t care.

I very much enjoyed the locks at Grindley Brook, but as we pulled out to start our journey the hire boat moored in front of us decided to set off to, then changed his mind, it was all a bit confusing. We got through the first 3 locks without any problems and were lucky enough to meet boats coming the other way. At the bottom of the staircase locks I went off to find the lockees in charge, so as to let them know we and the 2 hire boats behind us wished to come up. We had to wait, as they were just letting 3 boats down, and of course I stayed to help. It was great fun and the lockee was very friendly as we worked each boat through the locks. The Captain was being helpful all on his own with a single hander, who was heading down the locks, and he emptied the bins for me.

Eventually it was our turn and we were soon up and on our way, the lockee thanked me profusely for all my help which was lovely. and sang my praises to the Captain.

We didn’t get to far as we needed water and a pump out, and then onto the Whitchurch arm for shopping at Aldi. We hadn’t been down this short arm before, and the Captain made an excellent job of negotiating the sharp bend that led to the moorings.

They are very good moorings and only a short walk from Aldi. We also decided to take the 20min walk into the town for a pint or 2 of course.

The walk was lovely, through a country park were we spotted another woodpecker, and then through Jubilee park and into the town. The Captain had done his homework and knew there was a little micropub called the Crafty Dragon, and we soon found it. It is owned by Magic Dragon brewery, and had a great selection of their own ales and others. I tried Snowden Lager which was lovely, whilst the Captain had Gwyn a Du Stout from Monty, and Obsidian Stout by Magic Dragon, and we chatted to some of the locals. We then went to the Old Town Hall Vaults, a Joules brewery tap house for a pint of Slumbering Monk.

The Old Town Hall Vaults and me

https://magicdragonbrewing.com/

https://www.joulesbrewery.co.uk/our-taphouses/old-town-hall-vaults/

Will definitely go back to Whitchurch at some point.

Our next port of call is Ellesmere.

Church Minshull to Whitchurch 19½ miles and 21 locks, 1 canal.