SLOW GOING.

Week 5 Pershore to Stratford upon Avon 29 miles 14 locks

Wednesday, and the weather was much nicer after all the rain the previous afternoon. The only problem with having had so much rain is it meant the river went into flood, and the weirs before the locks became more powerful, and the flow of the river, which we were going against, became much stronger slowing us down, at times to a near standstill.

This became apparent when we left Pershore heading for Evesham, at the first lock, which is an unusual diamond shape, the force of the weir pushed the boat straight into the lock landing and there was nothing the Captain could do about it. I jumped off to find NB Monkey’n’Round already in the lock and going our way. Me and the crew discussed the state of the river, and they said they might wait for us at the next lock, its a lot easier doing the large locks when there are 2 boats.

But it was not to be, the flow of the river being against us slowed us right down, and by the time we got to the lock they were long gone, but they had very kindly told the crews of 3 boats moored above the lock we were on our way, and they were there waiting with windlasses in hand to lock us up. I was so pleased, as the lock landing was underwater, and I really didn’t know how I was going to get off to work the lock.

After a chat with our helpers, it turned out they had decided to stay above the lock to wait for the river to fall and make their onward journey safer. There was a hire boat with an American couple and 2 liveaboards, one being a single hander. The Captain made the decision it would be better for us to stay the night too and we moored up.

There were a few fun and games at the lock mid afternoon when a load of teenagers turned up in canoes, there was a lot of shouting and paddling, but they seemed to be having a great time, even when the heavens opened. They went into the lock, much to my surprise, closed the gates and let the water out, and then reversed the procedure. Canoes don’t usually use locks, but on this occasion it was just to give the kids the experience of being in a lock.

We had a quiet night after this and heard the hire boat leave quite early next day. We helped the 2 liveaboards through the lock just before setting off ourselves. I was gifted some mint by one of the boats, very kind I must say. The state of the river had improved slightly, but it was still very slow going for us.

The trip to Evesham was uneventful with only one lock to do, but we did see a few more boats on the move than in the previous day. I did see my first kingfisher though, it darted past the boat in its bright blue plumage with its dinner in its beak and then sat on a low branch to enjoy it. The captain had beaten me to the first Kingfisher spot of our travels the day before.

We found good moorings at Evesham but the river was still very high and was almost over topping the moorings, but the Captain was confident that it would rise no further as we had had no more rain, so we were happy to stay put.

Evesham has a couple of decent real ale pubs, the BCM (a micropub) and the Red Lion, the oldest pub in the town.

https://redlionevesham.co.uk/

We made for the Red Lion first, and the Captain was very happy with the dark ale in there, the lager was not so much to my taste, but we had a couple before heading to the local Wetherspoons, The Old Swanne Inn.

I had convinced myself that being Thursday it was steak night, but no that’s Tuesday. Its curry night on a Thursday, unfortunately we had had curry for tea the night before and we really didn’t fancy it 2 nights on the trot. We both decided on the Steak and Kidney pudding, and very nice it was too.

On the way back to the boat we called in at the BCM, or Bromsgrove Craft Monkey to give it its full title, and again the Captain was very happy with the stout they had on, and a decent lager for me.

https://www.facebook.com/BCMEvesham/

The river had dropped slightly by the time we returned so we settled down for the night.

The Captain had decided to take 2 days to get to Stratford, and after 4 locks and slow going again we stopped at Bidford upon Avon for the night. There was no room on the visitors moorings so we had to make do with being outside the pub, The Frog, and of course we had to go and pay our dues and demands. There was nothing dark on apart from Guinness for the Captain, but he said it was a good pint and we enjoyed a couple whilst people watching.

4 locks and 4 miles next day took us to some beautiful moorings for a peaceful night.

I had 3 locks to do next day, and we were joined in the first by a green (no name) narrowboat that a young couple had just bought, we chatted and the Captain and I were told different stories about the plans for the boat, hope they get things sorted out.

At the next lock the gongoozlers began to gather and ask questions, which we never mind answering.

At the lock into the basin at Stratford we had help, a young man who helped with the trip boat was there locking boats up and down to make sure the trip boat was never held up. He soon had us up and the Captain expertly manoeuvred us on to a pontoon. It was extremely busy round the basin, with a food and craft market in full swing, and lots of people just enjoying the beautiful weather.

After a short rest we took a walk round the market, and then on to the Stratford Ale house, unfortunately on this occasion (we have been before) it was not an enjoyable visit, the beer was good but the guy in charge of the record player (yes vinyl) had a strange taste in music, and it was just too loud for the size of room and us, so only the one in there.

https://www.thestratfordalehouse.com/

We then tried the Queens Head where the Captain made do with Doombar, and we sat outside and soaked up the sun.

https://queensheadstratford.com/

We decided next day to have a rest and a lie in and stayed put on the pontoons.

We took a walk out in the afternoon and tried the Dirty Duck, which is situated near the RSC, and had lots of pictures up of famous and not so famous actors. The Captain found a palatable bitter in there called Dirty Mallard, but we only had the one before walking back to the boat and trying the Red Lion, no darks ales but the garden menu (served until 5pm) looked good and reasonably priced. Then back to the boat for tea.

https://www.greeneking-pubs.co.uk/pubs/warwickshire/dirty-duck/

https://www.tabletable.co.uk/en-gb/locations/warwickshire/the-red-lion

Leaving Stratford the next day we rejoined the canal and narrow locks once again.

THE RIVER AVON, FLOODS AND FAUNA.

 

Tewksbury Abbey

Week 4 Worcester to Pershore 30 miles 3 locks

The trip from Worcester to Tewksbury was busy for me, as I decided to use the time to do some cooking for the next week. I made a lasagne, a curry and a chocolate cake, plus a full Sunday roast. I was interrupted once to help at one of the big big river locks, which are all manned by lock keepers, but I am required to hold the boat steady at the front using the bowline, which is slipped through a metal runner in the side of the lock, whilst the Captain does the same using the stern rope. The big locks do tend to be quite gentle when filling or emptying, but it’s better to be safe than sorry.

We got to Tewksbury, and it was then I remembered how difficult it could be for me to get off the boat, this is due to the high sided moorings and terrible ladders, but there was nowhere else to moor, we could have gone through the lock and on to the Avon, but the moorings there were full, so we had to stay put.

However, my love of beer overcame my nervousness of getting off, or more importantly getting back on. The Captain very kindly jury rigged me a step to make it easier, and off I got. The pub had won, are you surprised??

Tewksbury is a lovely town with a good selection of shops and pubs. The abbey is also well worth a visit, but as it was late afternoon we headed straight to the Cross House Tavern, an interesting micropub, where lager is a dirty word, and the beers are served straight from the barrel. There was a good dark on for the Captain, and I found a quite palatable hoppy APA. (American Pale Ale)

https://www.facebook.com/Tewkesbury.pub/?locale=en_GB

But I needed a lager ,so after checking the local Wetherspoons ,The Royal Hop Pole, had something for the Captain (which it did) we headed there and sat in the garden enjoying the sun and a couple of good pints, before heading back for roast beef with all the trimmings. I got back on the boat without a thought, strange what a couple of pints can do for your nerves.

Monday was given out to be very wet, but this changed slightly, and the Captain decided that we would not wait but head off that morning. We were able to join a hire boat in the lock, which was fun, and had plenty of gongoozlers watching our ascent on to the River Avon.

The Avon is not part of Canal and River Trust, so we had to buy a weeks license from the Avon Navigation Trust, it cost £55 for a week, this was plenty for us.

Monday turned out to be a day for nature, we had Common Terns wheeling above the boat, their sleek white bodies and forked tale make them a very attractive bird, a bird we have not seen before, a Curlew took flight as we passed, its long curved beak making it hard not to recognise, sand martins swooped and darted round the boat, catching flies and bugs on the wing for their young. In the woods we spotted our first Roe Deer with its rabbit like white tail and large ears. A lone Buzzard soared on the thermals, and also new to us, a Cuckoo flew by with its grey stripped breast and pigeon like head. The Captain also spotted our first kingfisher, I was well miffed because I missed it.

Roe Deer

We moored above the second lock of the day, just before the rain started.

An early start next day, as once again it was forecast to rain heavily in the afternoon. Only 2 locks for me to do, but they are the big river locks and manually operated. At the first lock, which has a swing bridge in its centre, we were helped through by 2 very nice volunteers from the Avon Trust, not lock keepers as such, just in the right place at the right time. Then Pershore lock and the good moorings at the side of the park.

Pershore Tree

The rain held off until we were safely moored and sat in the boat, but oh boy, it came with thunder and lightening and hail. It lasted what seemed like forever, and a culvert in front of the boat only just managed to keep up with the torrent of water coming down it.

When the rain eventually stopped we decided to walk into Pershore across the park. There is a small Asda here and an interesting indoor market, and of course a few pubs. Unfortunately from our previous visits we couldn’t remember any decent real ales pub. So we settled on the Angel Hotel which sits on the river. A nice olde worlde interior, with low beams and stone floors but expensive, over £11 for 2 pints. So on to the Millers Arms, much more in our price bracket, and the food we saw come out looked and smelt very tasty.

https://angelpershore.co.uk/

https://www.millersarmspershore.co.uk/

We called in at the Asda for a few bits, and then had a quiet night on the boat, before setting off bright and early for the next leg of our journey.

AND THE LOCKS KEEP COMING

Worcester Cathedral 

 3^rd Week Tardebigge lock 29 to Worcester

The Birmingham and Worcester canal is 29 miles long and there are 58 locks, so we still had 28 locks to do over 13 miles. Luckily they didn’t all come in one day.

After a late start we headed for Tibberton. I am sure the Captain told me a fib as I thought we only had 7 locks to do, but it turned out there were 12 and a short tunnel (230yrds).

This canal is very rural, considering how close we are to Birmingham and Worcester, with stunning views over open countryside and wooded knolls.

We moored at Tibberton, there are 2 pubs, so of course we had to try both. Speed the Plough was definitely a locals pub, with a booming landlord and a great selections of ciders (6) and lagers (5), but not so great on the real ale front, so the Captain had to make do with Guinness. The Bridge is by the canal, and although a lot quieter, and with a small but interesting food menu, not such a great choice of beer. So only the one in there as well.

https://www.facebook.com/speedtheploughtibberton/?locale=en_GB

https://www.facebook.com/TheBridgeTibberton/?locale=en_GB

Next day and the final bit into Worcester, and another 12 locks for me to do. We stopped after the last lock at bridge 9, next to Lowesmoor Basin, as there is an Aldi within walking distance and we needed some shopping.

Our actual mooring for the Coronation weekend was above lock 4, a quiet stretch close to the city centre, but after another busy day for both of us we decided to give the pub a miss, plus it was raining, and we didn’t fancy getting wet. Very fair weather boaters are we.

Friday next day, and after a lovely lie in, and a big brunch, we set out to explore Worcester. We started at the Cathedral, a magnificent building started in 1084, it was part of a larger priory which was a victim of the dissolution of the monasteries in 1540. Its the burial place of Prince Arthur, the elder brother of Henry VIII and King John. Well worth a visit.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worcester_Cathedral

We also watched the Peregrine falcons, and their 4 chicks, on a live feed from their nest on one of the Cathedral towers. For those of you that don’t know, many cathedrals and church’s have birds of prey nesting up in their high towers, and many have live feeds, like Derby and Lincoln, and of course Worcester

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATBLUqeKEtA

So after a bit of culture is was time for a pint, first The Oil Basin Brewhouse, a good pint of lager for me and an excellent porter for the Captain, only one complaint, it only has a small bar with has stools in front of it, great until you want to get served and you end up having to reach over the people sat on the seats to get your drinks and pay, so just the one in there.

https://www.facebook.com/theoilbasinbrewhouse/

Then on to a wonderful real ale pub, The Imperial Tavern, another of the Black Country Ales family. Always a great selection of real ales, with 2 darks on for the Captain and Staropramen lager for me, so a couple in there.

https://www.blackcountryales.co.uk/pubs/the-imperial-tavern

Saturday and the Coronation, I will readily admit I didn’t watch any of it, its not that I am anti royal or anything like that, I just didn’t fancy it. The Captain watched parts on his phone whilst I watched Midsummer Murders. We could hear the Cathedral bells ringing out in the pouring rain most of the day.

Late in the afternoon I spotted a youngish man walking by the boat, well I say walking he was staggering, 3 steps forward 4 back, weaving from side to side. I thought at one point he was going to collide with our boat, but he passed by heading a way from the lock. Then I realised he had turned round and was now heading for the lock, and instead of sticking to the towpath, and going down and under the bridge, he staggered to the side of the lock, which was empty. I watched with my heart in by mouth as he got closer and closer to the edge, then he staggered back, thank god, but it was not over, as he stepped right to the edge, I was convinced he was going in, but I was unable to move. Just as I came to my sense he seemed to pull himself together, left the lock and went under the bridge. I still have no idea how we would have got him out if he had fallen in. SO SCARY.

Sunday, and it was time to leave Worcester and head down on to the river Severn. There were 2 narrow locks and 2 of the big river locks to do before we got on to the river.

After the 2 narrow locks we stopped at Diglis Basin to put water in and get rid of rubbish. An old working boat was filling their tank when we pulled in, and they had rubbish to get rid of so I offered to take it whilst we waited, as I reached the bins I heard the recognisable sound of a traction engine whistle, so I had to go and investigate. I found a lovely Foden Steam Wagon called Dorset Wanderer. I love traction engines, they have been a passion of mine for over 25yrs.

https://www.steam-up.co.uk/dsf2k1/waggon/hx2197_dsf2k1.htm

When I returned to the boat, I found out we had had a change of plan, it turned out the Gloucester Lock was closed on a Tuesday, and as it was going to rain Monday the Captain had planned to stop at Tewksbury for the day and travel down to Gloucester on Tuesday. This meant not getting to Gloucester until Wednesday, which then would give us less time to get back to Coventry for our Croatian holiday. We were only going to Gloucester so we could go to the Greek on the Dock, a fantastic restaurant, but we had to give it a miss on this trip.

https://www.greekonthedocks.co.uk/

So we said goodbye to Worcester, joined the mighty river Severn, and headed for Tewksbury and the River Avon.

TARDEBIGGE LOCKS, HOW MANY??!!!!!

 

Second Week: Brum to The Queens Head Tardebigge, a journey of 16½ miles, 30 locks and 2¼ miles in tunnels.

The Captain had a wonderful birthday, my sister Di and husband Mick came to visit on his actual birthday (Friday), and his daughter Hannah came on the Saturday.

But firstly on Thursday we met up with Steve and Yvonne on NB Precious Jet, they are our neighbours back at Swan Lane, don’t live aboard but were out for a couple of weeks cruising. We met in the Craven Arms and they invited us to go to a Sri Lankan restaurant, but unfortunately I had already planned a special birthday meal for the Captain of Steak with all the trimmings, and lemon merengue with evaporated milk for pud.

They are on a more restricted timescale so left next next morning. Steve does a vlog, and on a live feed as he glided past us, he loudly serenaded the Captain with Happy Birthday.

https://www.facebook.com/Defender90Tyrrell/videos/776927860679761 (jump to 5.30 for the serenade)

The itinerary for the family visits were just about the same, starting off with the Hall of Memory, a tribute to the men and women of Birmingham who gave their lives in conflicts over the years,

https://hallofmemory.co.uk/

Followed by a visit to the Bedsprings, or to give it its proper name Birmingham Central Library, a fascinating building, were you can travel up the escalators to view the thousands of books housed there. There are 2 sensory gardens, and a viewing platform right at the top were you can see for miles. Also on the top is the Shakespeare memorial room.

https://visitbirmingham.com/things-to-see-and-do/the-library-of-birmingham-p1321551

We had a great time with Di and Mick, although we didn’t go out for a meal with them, we did enjoy a few pints in the Craven Arms.

Hannah, we took to Ming Moon, a great All you can Eat Chinese buffet in the centre of China Town. It was great, plenty of choice and very tasty. But not for a pint as she came with the wonderful news that she is expecting her second child in November, so no beer for her.

https://www.mingmoon.co.uk/birmingham

Sunday we chilled out.

Monday and it was time to set off again, and on to a new canal for us, the Birmingham and Worcester. Building started in 1792 but it was slow progress, and the full canal did not open until 1815. It connects Birmingham with the River Severn at Worcester and was mainly used to carry chocolate from the Bournville factories.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worcester_and_Birmingham_Canal

Tunnels were the thing of the day with 3 in total to navigate. Firstly Wast Hill tunnel at 2726yrds, it is one of the longest on the system. It was very wet and took us about 45mins. It was made more interesting by the 2 boats that joined us for the trip, the one in front set off very tentatively, and the Captain thought it would take a couple of hours to get through at their speed, but they soon got going and pulled away from us. The boat behind was a day hire boat which managed to hit the wall as they entered the tunnel, and there was a lot of shouting, screaming and general noise coming from it as they tried to get away from the side. This continued when the never ending drips from the roof hit them unexpectedly. It was fun.

Just a fun fact, in the tunnel were old telegraph insulators which were used to transport the telegraph wires through the tunnel in olden days.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wast_Hills_Tunnel

The second tunnel was Shortwood tunnel at 614yrds, so it was quite a bit shorter and not so entertaining.

The last for the day was Tardebigge tunnel at 580yrds. This one proved to be the most interesting, as it appeared it be hewn out of solid rock, with only a few places which were the usual brickwork of other tunnels, our light lit up the strange and wonderful shapes of the rock formations. Absolutely fascinating.

We made it to the top of the Tardebigge flight, but little did we know what was in store for us next day.

There are 30 narrow locks over 2¼ miles, it is the longest flight in England, and one of the longest in Europe. It raises (or drops as we were going down) the canal 220ft, and once you start you cant stop.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tardebigge_Locks

Unfortunately for us we had a hire boat going down in front, and no boats were coming up. This meant we had to reset every lock. To explain, the lock would be empty so we had to fill it using the top paddles, some of which were very stiff. The boat would then come in and shut the single top gate. I would walk to the other end of the lock and let the water out using the bottom gate paddles, then open both gates, which meant walking round the lock using the top gate to cross onto the off side to open the off side gate, let the boat out. Shut the paddles and the gates and on to the next, and repeat for 30 locks. We reckon I walked around 4miles.

The Captain tried to help the best he could, but we found that a lot of the pounds (the bits of water between the locks) had no rings or bollards were he could secure the boat to get off and help me.

It took us 5hrs 40mins, I was knackered as you can imagine, so the thought of cooking tea after this marathon of a day went out the window.

Luckily for us there is a pub after the last lock, The Queens Head, and they do food. So we moored up, had showers and set off for the pub. It is a lovely pub, and the pizza’s we had we some of the best I have ever tasted. Even better, they have an offer on Monday to Thursday 5pm until 6.30pm, 2-4-1 on pizzas and a £1 off on draught ale, cider or lager. A brilliant finish to an exhausting day

https://www.queensheadbromsgrove.co.uk/

I doubt we will do this route again, which is a shame because I would love another of the Queens Head pizza’s, but never say never as the saying goes.