STUNNING SKIPTON

Skipton Wharf

Well I must say our trip along the Leeds Liverpool had been up to now, very quiet with hardly any boats moving, but this all changed when we got to Skipton.

Skipton is a mecca for gongoozlers and tourists. It is a pretty town, with plenty of independent quirky shops and some great pubs. And plenty of places to eat. Boat trips and boat hire is available from the wharf opposite were we moored.

After mooring up we headed out to try some of the micro pubs, which have increased in number since our last visit. Firstly the Beer Engine, a great little micropub which has recently been extended. The Captain was very happy to find Bad Kitty by Brass Castle on the bar, and I found a very nice Mittel pils lager. Then of to find the Ref and Whistle and the Early Doors. Unfortunately the Ref and Whistle is closed, but appears to be reopening as The Yorkshireman, but the Early Doors was open so a pint in there. Then we walked up to the Castle, very expensive in here but a good pint.

Next day our friend Chris (from Manchester) was coming to visit for the afternoon, she was staying nearby. In the morning we walked back into the town as we both needed to get a few bits. The main road was closed to traffic and there were all sort’s of activities for all ages going off. Apparently it was Yorkshire Day, and the town was celebrating. It was lovely strolling around and we got the things we needed to. Chris came promptly at 2pm and we set off to the pub, the Beer Engine first of course, followed by The Swadford Tap, a new micropub, We tried a couple of others but no darks on, so out we came, the bar staff were helpful and suggested other place to try. We ended up in the Boathouse opposite were we where moored. The Captain was truly happy in here with Naughty and Nice by Vocation, a chocolate stout. Chris headed off and we headed back to the boat for tea and a quiet night.

Just Like the Captain

Something did not sit right with the Captain, and he was not well at all next day. I suggested staying in Skipton but he decided to move on. We had only gone a short distance, and at the first swing bridge he took a turn for the worse and we had to moor up at the end of the bridge mooring, which luckily was very long. We normally would not even think if mooring somewhere like this, but had no choice. He went for a lie down and I had some lunch. I had just finished eating when one of the large trip boats tried to wind next to us, but we were in their way. I went to sort it out and pulled the boat back far enough for them to complete their manoeuvre. I chatted with its Captain, and although it isn’t an official winding hole, they use it every hour. So we decided to move. Again not far, and we ended up by a noisy road, but it was as far as the Captain could go, then he took to his bed for the rest of the day.

We put it down to a combination of heat, sun and beer. Or maybe a 24hr tummy bug.

He felt better next day and we headed for Riddlesden. I have already explained that the Leeds Liverpool is the home of swing bridges, and we had about 7 or 8 to do. Mainly manual, not electric ones. But luckily for us we ended up in a convoy of 5 boats, I walked forward and did a few of the bridges for everyone, when I had got enough exercise I jumped back on and let the other take the strain. A rather strange thing happened at the last bridge, we were now alone, all the other boats had stopped. As we got to the bridge it was opening and a boat was coming towards us, so we just assumed the lady doing the bridge was with this boat and continued as normal to pass through the bridge when it was clear. The lady then rather aggressively said, ‘I opened the bridge for MY boat’ and I replied ‘And’ not understanding her point, it was then we realised there was a widebeam, called Just Chillin’ which we had assumed was moored setting off to come through the bridge, but we were through way before it was near the bridge, so I still cant see why she was getting her knickers in such a twist. Nowt as strange as folks.

We moored at Riddlesden for the night and tried the Marquis of Granby, the Captain still not upto the mark only had a pint of lager, they did have a couple of real ales on but neither to his taste.

A real challenge next day with the amazing Bingley 5 and 3 rise to negotiate. These are the steepest flight of staircase locks in England and raise the canal 60ft in 320ft (that’s the 5 rise only).

Bingley 5 Rise

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bingley_Five_Rise_Locks

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bingley_Three_Rise_Locks

For those of you who don’t know, a staircase of locks, are locks with no pound in between them, so basically you use the water from the first lock to fill the second lock, and the bottom gates of the first lock are the top gates of the second lock, and so on and so forth. Hope that makes sense.

We arrived at the locks at midday after 4 swing bridges, all of which were fully electric, yippee for me. But had to wait till 1pm as they were bringing a boat up the locks, and they are very much one way working. I had a rest as there were plenty of lockees on to do the work, and I haven’t been in a lock for quite some time.

We were joined in the lock by NB Living the Dream, I never got the Captains or crews name, but we had a good chin wag, as you do.

The gates on the flight are the tallest on the system I believe, and look sooooo tall from inside the lock, and they leak like mad, the Captain had his work cut out keeping the boat in just the right place, not to far forward so they couldn’t open the gate, and not to far back so that the back of the boat, and us, didn’t get soaked.

Leaking Gates

We were soon down and on our way to Saltaire, another of our favourites places on this canal. Built by Sir Titus Salt in 1851 for his mill workers, it was a Victorian modal village, but had no pubs as Titus was teetotal. He did build schools, a hospital, almshouses and churchs for his workers.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saltaire

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titus_Salt

There are plenty of pubs now though.

Mooring can be difficult in Saltaire, the best moorings are outside the mill, but are limited to daytime mooring only (can’t stay overnight). We did managed to get onto the arnco, but it wasn’t the best as it can be shallow and the boat becomes grounded if we are not careful. To me things seemed to have improved since our last visit, but the Captain wasn’t as convinced.

We headed off to Fannys Ale House, a good real ale pub in the village, and the Captain wasn’t disappointed with a decent porter, although he still wasn’t up to drinking more than a pint.

https://www1.camra.org.uk/pubs/fannys-ale-house-saltaire-126396

Off to Leeds next.

16 miles, 11 locks, and at least 19 swing bridges, 1 canal.